Slip-Resistance on Tile Floors

The following is a compilation of facts regarding slip-resistance of floor finishes: The slip resistance of floor finishes (coefficient of friction) is measured on an apparatus known as a James Machine. The results of the James Machine, when compared to actual floor condition, becomes somewhat nebulous, but it still remains the best test available. The readings measure the static coefficient of friction (slip resistance) and give a numerical rating of 0.1 to 1.0 with 0.5 being the figure set as the limit of safety. Readings higher than .5 are progressively less slippery and hence safer. Numbers progressively lower than 0.5 are more slippery and considered unsafe.

A newer generation slip resistance apparatus is the Topaka unit which measures dynamic coefficient of friction (slip resistance). An unfinished or unwaxed floor is very often faster (more slippery) than a finished or waxed floor. In most cases the application of finish or wax actually controls slip.

Conventional spray buffing is a major factor affecting slip-resistance. Spray buffing hardens the finish and thus speeds up the floor. There is a definite correlation between hardness and slip. Conventional spray buff (a mix of finish, water and cleaner) lowers the coefficient of slip by about 0.025 points thus speeding up the slip on the floor. Today's modern spray buff and mop on dressing compounds will control the slip on a floor. After using a Spray Buff or Mop on Restorer on a finished floor, the slip index will usually read 0.05 0.075 higher on the James scale; slowing down the floor (making less slippery).

Spray buffing is a valid and economical method of floor maintenance and is here to stay, but the proper choice of chemical compounds is important in relation to safety.

Water spillage on floors creates an extremely hazardous condition. Water acts as a lubricant between the floor substrate and the bottom of the shoe. Spilled water, condensation, food and drink should be cleaned up immediately. Good quality walk off mats should be placed at entranceways to prevent rain and snow from being brought in by foot traffic.

Residual mop treatment film or residue from furniture polish, metal cleaner and lubricating sprays will greatly increase the slip on the floor surface.

Avoid overspray onto floor. Clean up residues promptly using a good heavy duty cleaner-degreaser. Dust created by burnishing or dirty floors will cause a floor to become more slippery. Sweep or damp mop floors on a regular basis.

Common Floor Types and Characteristics

LOOR TYPES	FACTORY FINISH	CHARACTERISTICS
SLATE Natural and stone that is quarried and cut to desired size	None	Stains due to spills, oil, grease, etc.; soft, tends to scratch & dust from sand & grit; sensitive to acids & hard to clean grouting.
TERRAZZO  Mixture of portland cement and two parts marble chips that isground & polished	None	Stains easily (rust, grease, oil, spills); scratches from abrasives: sand & grit and sensitive to acids, organic & crystallizing salts
VINYL (Pure) or NO WAX Mixture of vinyl chloride, plasticizer & pigment. Known as homogeneous vinyl	Yes, Do Not Remove	Some have thin surface coat; sensitive to grit, sand, pads & cigarette burns; difficult to strip: assumes shape of sub-floor, indents at 150 lbs/sq. in.
VINYL ASBESTOS Mixture of vinyl chloride, plasticizer inert filler, pigment & asbestos fibers	N/A	Brittleness to abrasives, embossed designs are hard to strip; whitish cast when stripped burnish to remove, indents at 25 lbs/sq. in.
VINYL (Composition) Vinyl chloride, plasticizer, inert filler and pigment	May or may not - this is dependent upon manufacturer recommendations	Brittleness to abrasives, embossed designs are hard to strip; whitish cast when stripped, burnish to remove, indents at 25 lbs/sq. in.
WOOD Natural wood usually birch, beech, maple or oak.	Don't Remove, Light Sand to Recoat	Stains and is damaged by water, grease, abrasives, oil & high alkaline cleaners and requires special products and procedures.

Floor Pads Shine Under Pressure

They can take the heat -- and they're aggressive.

Developed to replace polish brushes used on low-speed equipment, floor pads give increased flexibility to a floor maintenance program.

If one pad doesn't produce the results needed, simply try a different color pad. Light-colored pads are least aggressive and are usually used for polishing. The most aggressive pad is black and is used in stripping procedures.

A pad's aggressiveness is related to the number of resin "rocks" on the pad's surface and the type of synthetic or natural fiber used in the pad's construction. Manufacturers dip pads in (or brush pads with) a resin solution to hold the fibers together. When the resin dries, it leaves small resin "rocks" on the fibers.

Pig's hair is a natural fiber used in pad manufacture that is popular with many floor care professionals. Rubberized pads are also available for high-speed burnishing. 

Three variables affect the way a buffer performs: downward pad pressure, pad contact area and pad speed. These variables are best described by heat-generating potential. For example, propane buffers generally produce the greatest heat at 3,000 rpm, with full pad contact at high pad pressures. 

Too Fast and Hot 
Altering the aggressiveness of the pad can offset deficiencies in pad pressure and pad contact area. Overly aggressive pads may produce the desired heat but may leave circles in the floor finish. Powdering of floor finish is also a characteristic of using an excessively aggressive pad.

Many manufacturers design pads for specific types of equipment, such as propane and battery buffers. Ask your distributor or manufacturer for a recommendation when purchasing floor pads, and be sure to tell them what type of buffing equipment and floor finish your crew uses.

When choosing a pad for a cleaning operation such as automatic scrubbing, the least aggressive floor pad that does a satisfactory job should be used to help prevent damage to the floor shine. Many cleaning chemicals, especially non-neutral cleaners, can temporarily soften floor polish. 

Pre-burnish pads for use with propane equipment have become popular where there is light floor soiling. Using these pads can be more time efficient than automatic scrubbing, and they can be used in rotation with automatic scrubbing in some floor maintenance programs. 

There are two ways to construct a floor pad. Some manufacturers use a layered design in which pad fibers lie roughly parallel to the floor. Pads that have fibers running vertically can deteriorate 50 percent faster. This is a result of pad wear on the looped ends of the fibers, eroding the pad structurally.

Shake and Brush to Clean 
Polishing pads should be cleaned often to eliminate build-up that can scratch the floor polish. Clean pads by removing them from the machine and shaking them in a plastic bag to remove dust and imbedded debris. Pads can also be brushed with a stiff plastic bristle brush.

Cleaning and stripping pads can be cleaned by soaking them in a light stripper solution for five minutes, then brushing them with a stiff brush while rinsing with clear water. Be sure your crew always wears protective clothing when working with stripper solution.

Some manufacturers and distributors provide pad cleaning services which pick up your pads and return them ready-to-use. They may also clean employee uniforms and entrance mats.

Even though a used pad can be cleaned, it doesn't mean that it will always produce the same results as a new pad. Pads begin to lose their resin rocks as the pad is used. Be careful to avoid overusing them.

Floor pads do have their limitations. Uneven floors are best cleaned and stripped with a floor brush on a low-speed machine or automatic scrubber. Ordinarily, uneven floors are maintained with a low-speed program, eliminating the need for high-speed equipment. 

Brushes have yet to successfully bridge the gap to high-speed applications. Although some floor care equipment manufacturers are beginning to market high-speed brush machines, most floor care professionals still use pads when using high-speed equipment.

Have your crew test pads to find the best one for the floor care procedures they perform.   Finding the best pad for your equipment and floor polish can determine the success your staff has in maintaining good-looking, clean floors.

Copyright National Trade Publications, Inc

Hard Floor Maintenance

Hard floors include a wide variety of different types of surfaces from both man-made and natural origins. Concrete is probably the most commonly used hard floor surface. Terrazzo, marble, natural stone, clay, ceramic tile, and brick flooring are valuable members of the hard floor surface family as well. Although this article is not exhaustive it is our intent to provide helpful information on the major hard floor.

A SAVING TECHNIQUE

When cleaning tile, terrazzo, or marble, employ a preliminary rinse before using any cleaning solution. This simple operation consists merely of dampening the surface with soft water using a mop, a sprayer, or a sprinkling can before applying the scrubbing solution. The clean water is absorbed by the pores of the floor and consequently prevents the deep absorption of the cleaning compound. By using the preliminary rinse, the yellowing of hard floors due to residues may easily be avoided. It should be pointed out that the preliminary rinse does not cost any money because it enables faster scrubbing. It permits the cleaning to be done easily and more completely. It cuts down on the amount of cleaner needed and saves the floor surface. It is strongly recommended as a regular practice on hard floors.

CONCRETE FLOORS  Plain concrete flooring is unattractive in appearance and very drab if left untreated. If the floor has not been sealed, dirt, oil and grease can easily penetrate and discolor the surface. Before applying any seal it is extremely important that the floor is cleaned, etched if needed, and dry. The particular sealer to be used for concrete will depend on the job to be done and the desires of the customer. All American is the best option interior for concrete floors.

TERRAZZO FLOORS  Terrazzo floors have been in existence for a very long time, with several floors in the Mediterranean area that are more than 3,000 years old. Terrazzo floors are not resistant to acids due to the high content of marble. Some harsh alkaline solutions will also do considerable damage to an unsealed terrazzo floor. It is generally agreed that the best seal for terrazzo will be waterbased and light in color. Defiant and All American are water-based coatings that leaves a tough, traffic-resistant surface. When multiple coats are applied, All American serves very well as both a sealer and a finish coat. It dries quickly without strong odors. It is colorless so it will not darken even the lightest colored floors. When it is necessary to remove the product, it will not require the harsh, strong alkaline strippers that could lead to damage of the surface. Super Automated Stripper is very adequate and safe for this type of floor.

CLAY AND CERAMIC TILE FLOORS   Clay tiles include all types of floor tile having a basic clay composition, which ranges from cheap quarry to the more expensive vitreous or semi-vitreous tiles. They are either glazed, having a glossy surface fused upon their face, or they are unglazed with a duller appearance. Quarry and other types of clay tile require little in the way of routine maintenance and are comparatively easy to keep clean. Many floors are maintained with a neutral detergent such as Blue Lighting. Perhaps one of the most common cleaning problems is the removal of hard water deposits and soap scum from washroom and shower floors. Both the deposits left by hard water and soap scum are alkaline; due to the lime content, they cannot be removed wilt normal types of detergents. This soil can, however, be removed with a mild acid solution such as LAV GLO. The solution should be allowed to act for a few minutes and the floor scrubbed, if necessary, with a nylon or polyester floor pad (brushes work best for grouted floors). After treatment, the acid solution should then be thoroughly rinsed from the floor with clean water.

BRICK FLOORING   Brick flooring usually consists of clay, either vitreous or semi- vitreous. Sand, lime, and concrete bricks can also be used for flooring. Normal maintenance should be carried out by sweeping, followed by washing with a solution of neutral detergent, such as Blue Lightning.  Sealing is not generally recommended for brick floors, however, if a sealer is desired for the grout two coats of a water-based acrylic seal such as  would perform well. Aquathane HP

NATURAL STONE FLOORS  Marble, granite and limestone are the most common floor and tile types that you will encounter. However, there are other stone types that you may encounter. In most situations it should not be necessary to seal natural stone floors. However, it is recognized that in some circumstances a seal may be desired to protect the cement or grout and occasionally to add gloss to the surface. If the floor is subject to heavy traffic it may require resurfacing on a stringent maintenance schedule. For these occasions, a water-based, acrylic type seal that is water-white in color while possessing non-yellowing characteristics should be selected.

SLATE  Slate can be found both indoors and out. Slate can be a problem since it contains high clay content and will often flake, spall and easily develop efflorescence. This is especially true in wet areas. Slate is best treated with a high quality finish such as Granite

SANDSTONE  Sandstone is a sedimentary material that consists of sand crystals cemented together with natural clays. Sandstone is very porous and should be sealed with a penetrating seal such as Granite.

QUARTZITE  Quartzite is also a rare flooring material but is gaining in popularity. It is classified as sandstone. For this reason if exhibits all the properties discussed under the sandstone category.

SHELLSTONE or COQUINA  Shell stone or Coquina is limestone composed of broken fragments of shells and corals. It is a sedimentary material and is very porous. Its shell or cord fragments easily identify it. It is a very abrasive stone and should not be resurfaced.

FLAGSTONE /  BLUESTONE  Flagstone is a term given to almost all stone material cut into thin, irregular shapes. It is found extensively on sidewalks, foyer entrances and Pool decks. Flagstone should be cleaned and sealed with a penetrating sealer; such as Granite.

ONYX  Onyx is a type of marble. It is very expensive and can be found on tabletops and small pieces of furniture. It can be treated just like marble while possessing a high shine.

SOAPSTONE  Soapstone is one of the softest materials, which is composed of the mineral talc. For this reason it makes an excellent carving material and can be found on fireplace surrounds and hearths. It is treated like marble.

Floor Maintenance Costs

Characteristics of The Major Floor Care  Maintenance Systems
	Scrub & Recoat	Weekly Spray Buff	Daily Burnishing	Weekly Burnishing
Labor Cost	Low	Moderate	High	Low
Product Cost	Moderate	Low	High	Moderate
Total Cost	Low	Moderate	High	Moderate
Ease of Implementation	Easy	Moderate	Moderate	Easy
Initial Appearance	Very Good	Excellent	Excellent	Excellent
On A Daily Basis	Very Good	Very Good	Excellent	Very Good
Key Benefits	Minimal Care Low Cost	Daily High Gloss Shine in Moderate Traffic	Ultimate In High Gloss & Retention In Heavy Traffic	Labor Saving, Daily High Gloss Shine in Moderate Traffic

 

Hard Floor Maintenance and Floor Surfaces

Asphalt Tile / Linoleum Products with a pH above 10 will emulsify protective coatings leading to a rapid deterioration of the tile. Solvent-type cleaners tend to soften, or even dissolve asphalt, linoleum tile. Stripping solutions should fall in a pH range of 10-12. Stronger solutions can cause running or bleeding of the color pigments in the tile.

Vinyl / Vinyl Composition Tile  For maintenance of all vinyl flooring, methods and materials are the same, as the vinyl flooring is virtually immune to solvents and is highly resistant to acids and alkalis. Although some manufacturers claim a protective coating or wax is not necessary, there is no floor covering that is impervious to abrasive friction and wear.

Finished Wood  There are many types of wood and just as many types of coatings for them. It is best to use a neutral or mild alkaline solution for cleaning. Perhaps most important is to keep the amount of cleaning solution and rinse water to a minimum to avoid the wood fibers from absorbing water and becoming damaged.

Quarry / Ceramic Tile  While both quarry and ceramic tile are virtually impervious to most elements, the grout surrounding them may not be. When using an acid product, be sure that complete and thorough rinsing is done. Acidic products may eat away at some grout as it would a lime deposit.

Natural Marble  Acidic products should never be used on natural marble, as marble is composed of limestone which is attacked by acid just as an acid would dissolve a hardness film. A moderate or strong alkaline product may discolor (Lighten) marble, and for that reason their use is not recommended.

Seamless (Poured Urethane) etc..  Very durable flooring that is impervious to most chemicals used in cleaning. These floors are sometimes poured in several steps, and if faulty preparation is done between steps, a deterioration of the floor may occur on its own. It would be best to avoid strong alkaline cleaning solutions.

Concrete  Concrete floors should be sealed with a special sealant periodically during its lifetime to enable the concrete to resist soils that would penetrate it. The use of a strong acidic product or a strong alkaline product can deteriorate the concrete if it has not been sealed.

Terrazzo  Marble or Granite chips set in mortar and then ground smooth is a terrazzo floor. Some people believe there are special sealers used on terrazzo floors and there is no real need for any other protective coating. However, as with any type of floor you must apply a sacrificial coating in order to preserve and protect the marble chips. As well as provide an anti-slip surface.

Conductive Floors   Found in health care and hospital units such as surgery, intensive care or where oxygen is used. Conductive Flooring allows static electricity to be conducted to the ground without the spark you sometimes encounter. This property of the floor helps to avoid explosions in an oxygen rich atmosphere, so it is very important that only an approved product be used and very thoroughly rinsing be carried out.

Metal Cross-linked Polymer Floor Finishes  These are synthetic floor finishes where the plastic molecules in the floor finish are bonded together with a metal ion to produce a polymer floor finish that is unaffected by water, detergents and stripping without the use of ammonia. Typically the more coats of these floor finishes the more shine you will get and the slip resistance is not diminished.

Silica Filming  A white film on a surface that cannot be chemically removed. This film is caused by the use of a sillicated (metal protective) product that has not been thoroughly rinsed off. it can also be caused by an acidic product used on grouting between tiles and not rinsing thoroughly.

KEY POINTS TO REMEMBER

Condition Of Floor  Floors that have been regularly maintained for several years with buffable waxes are difficult to strip, occasionally impossible. Essentially, the wax turns into part of the floor A customer must commit time and effort required to strip the layers of wax if this is not possible, then a buffable finish is recommended.

Floor Color Dark colored floors enhance powder, scuffs, dust and scratch marks. it is important to remember this before making a recommendation to the customer. Black heel marks show up more easily on light colored floors. Protect these with a highly black mark resistant floor finish product.

Entrance / Exterior Conditions  Buffable and non-Buffable finishes become quickly scratched by tracked-in sand and grit Usually, buffables provide better protection than non buffables against abrasive foot traffic. Because Ultra High Speed finishes are pliable, they generally can be recovered by buffing provided that enough finish is still on the floor.

Regular cleaning will help floors last

Consider amount of pedestrian, industrial traffic to determine needs.

Boasting unlimited design options and excellent durability, resilient flooring performs well in many heavy commercial applications. But as with any type of flooring, a resilient floor will last longer and perform better when it is regularly cleaned and maintained. When planning a maintenance program, remember that the amount and type of pedestrian and industrial traffic the surface will be subject to will determine the cleaning and maintenance needs of the floor. The type, style, color and pattern of the floor also contribute to the frequency and intensity of maintenance needed. Solid-colored floors tend to show scuffs, scratches, dirt and general wear more than patterned floors, especially those in light shades. Once you determine the wear your resilient floor must endure and examine factors such as color and traffic pattern, you will be able to address your individual maintenance needs. Practices Light daily sweeping, dust mopping or vacuuming will prevent dirt and grit from being ground into the floor. If the floor is diligently swept daily, a light weekly cleaning with a damp mop may be enough to remove dirt. For more resistant soils and weekly cleanings, wet mopping will be required. Frequency of mopping will depend on the color of the floor and the nature and amount of soiling. Regular swabbing of entryways using a commercial-grade cleaner will help extend the life of the floor. When choosing a floor detergent, look for products that are low foaming, general detergents that may be used in automatic scrubbers. A good detergent will also have neutral pH to remove dirt and protect polish and be highly concentrated to allow for low dilution ratio. Techniques Apply cleanser with a sponge mop. After the soil deposits have been loosened from the floor, mop up excess detergent and water. Rinse with clean, warm water to remove all residues, since any detergent film remaining will cause stickiness and will trap tracked-in dirt. Do not flood the floor because excess water may harm floor seals and adhesives. Keep off the floor until dry. Scuffs and Marks Periodic buffing with a slow speed buffer will remove most scuff marks and light scratches. Buffing also will add luster while dislodging dirt and blending touch-up spots with the original finish. Difficult scuff marks not removed by mopping or buffing can be removed using a nylon scouring pad. Use a solution of neutral floor cleaning detergent, rub gently and rinse well. Floor Finish and Luster Over time, high traffic areas will lose their luster and gloss. Touch up worn areas before the finish film wears through completely to prevent permanent damage or staining to the floor surface. Never apply finish to a dirty floor because it will trap the dirt under the surface. Mop the floor if it has been exposed to traffic since the last finish application. Be certain no floor cleaner is left on the floor before applying finish. Applying finish over a cleanser film reduces the water resistance of the finish and may leave it spotted. Good polishes contain high-performance acrylics and a high solid percentage. High solids allow for easy application, excellent leveling and buffing results, and dry bright without buffing. Once the floor is thoroughly cleaned, apply a light coat of polish to restore luster. To apply, pour liquid into a clean, shallow pan. Dip in a sponge mop and wring out gently, leaving it saturated with finish. Apply finish to the floor by mopping in one direction to ensure a thin, even coat on the floor. Most finishes dry in about 30 minutes. To apply additional coats, make sure the first layers are completely dry. Do not force-dry the floor, it may lead to a powdering of the finish. Removing Build Up Occasionally you may need to strip old layers of floor finish and apply a fresh coat. Never use the same equipment for applying finish as you have used for removing it. Even small traces of stripper will prevent the new finish from adhering properly. Floor stripper or other products that are ammonia-free, fast-acting and detergent-enhanced (allowing the chemicals to strip efficiently without harming the floor) are good product choices. Quality strippers will also be easy to use and won’t require use of abrasive pads or brushes. They will have a high solid content for increased protection of the floor surface. Dilute a solution of stripper as directed and mop onto the floor. Let stand for 10 minutes and mop to remove the solution and unwanted build up. Rinse and dry fully, and then apply a fresh coat of polish as directed above. The above guidelines were provided by Domco, manufacturer of Azrock Commercial Flooring.

All Content Copyright National Trade Publications Inc.

Buffing Comparisons

Buffing Comparisons for Maintaining a 10,000 sq. ft. Facility
	Time (minutes)	Cost Per Task
20" 175 RPM	250	$41.65
20" 300 RPM	150	$24.99
20" 1000 RPM	70	$11.66
20" 2000 RPM	60	$10.00
Propane Powered
20" 2000 RPM	37	$6.16

* Labor Cost @ $10.00 per hour

Time justification for purchasing " Ultra High Speed Floor Care System" maintaining a 10,000 sq. ft facility.

Cost of Spray Buffing using a 20" Standard speed floor machine- $41.65

Cost of Burnishing using a 20" 1600 RPM high speed floor machine- $10.00

* Example, maintaining a facility of 10,000 sq. ft buffing one day per week, 52 times per year (once per week).

$41.65 x 52 times per year = $ 2165.80 in labor costs per year

versus

$10.00 x 52 times per year = $ 520.00 in labor costs per year

A net savings of $1645.80 in the first year

The Facts and Fiction of High-Speed Burnishing

Let a brief chemistry lesson ease your fears.
By Thomas H. Bach

To discuss high-speed burnishing programs, you must first understand the chemistry of floor finishes used in these programs. Acrylic floor finishes and their inherent properties are designed around three major ingredients: polymer, wax and plasticizers.

The polymer is the most important part of the finish. Wear and maintenance properties -- which include gloss, hardness, durability, removability, slip-resistance, and resistance to scuffing, black marks, powdering, soil, detergents and water -- are a function of the base polymer.

All the remaining chemicals added to floor-finish formulations are used to modify inherent polymer properties, but the base properties desired are determined by the polymer selection. The second major component in floor finish is another polymer, called "wax." Like the base polymer, wax is synthetic, but it is different in composition from the original polymer.

The function of wax in a floor finish is to provide desired buffability. The higher the wax content, the more buffable the finish. However, too much wax makes the finish soft and more susceptible to scuffing and dirt pick-up.

Plasticizers can sometimes be solvents which assist in film formation, and evaporate as the film dries. Other plasticizers remain within the film during its life to provide resiliency. Various combinations of these ingredients are responsible for the performance properties of  floor finishes that we use today. Keep this in mind as we look at fact and fiction in high-speed burnishing programs.

Fiction
Floor finishes used in high-speed programs must be "thermoplastic" in composition.

Fact
All floor finish films are thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is simply a term that defines a material that will flow, deform or become "plastic" when heated. This material can differ in its toughness, hardness and melting or softening point. Thermoplastic materials include everything from steel, glass and Plexiglas, to butter and floor finishes.

Fiction
High-speed burnishing causes a meltdown of the layers of finish.

Fact
High-speed burnishing is nothing more than controlled scratching that results in physically removing or abrasively smoothing the top wear-surfaces of floor finish. This smoothing causes increased floor gloss.

If your crew employs a high-speed burnishing program, you may want five or six coats of finish to be applied to floors for two reasons:

* Successive coats of finish will dampen out the irregularities of floor tile, especially after stripping.

* Because burnishing abrasively removes the film, you run the risk of prematurely damaging or wearing out floor tile without applying an adequate number of coats of finish. Multiple coats of finish result in a smooth surface that reflects light in an ordered, regular pattern to create high gloss.

Fiction
Difficulty in removing finish from a floor, or stripping, is caused by high-speed burnishing.

Fact
All finishes lose some of their removability as they age. The difficulty in removing high-speed-maintained finish films is often due to the amount of time the finish was on the floor, and not from any physical or chemical changes which take place when the finish is burnished.

Because removability only gets harder with time, it is important that finishes used in a high-speed maintenance program start out with excellent removability features.

Copyright National Trade Publications, Inc.

The Effect of Temperature & Humidity on the Performance of Floor Finish

The effects of humidity on the drying and performance of a floor finish is very important. High humidity retards the evaporation of water from the polish film, leaving the film soft, incompletely dry, and very Scuffable. Floor finish films, like latex paints, dry (harden) from the surface inward towards the flooring. Thus a floor finish which appears to be dry and feels dry to touch can in fact be wet and soft down close to the floor. Adequate ventilation during and after applying a floor finish is very important. If the air in the area being finished is high in humidity, close the windows and run the air conditioner to lower the humidity. In the winter, turn up the heat to dry the air and also warm-up the substrate (flooring).

Problems caused by high humidity are:

1. Excessive scuffing and black marking from traffic until finish dries hard. 
2. Poor detergent and water resistance due to the delay in finish cross-linking. 
3. The threat and reality of gluing furniture to the floor. 
4. Streaking and mop drag created by the coat being applied biting into preceding coats. (this phenomenon is caused by the applied coat re-emulsifying the previous coating that has not yet cure.) Another important aspect in the drying of floor finish is the correlation between drying time and solids of the finish. Higher solids results in a thicker film developing on the floor and thus, a greater period of dry time being required between coats (sometimes in excess of one hour).

The Effect of Temperature & Humidity on the Performance of Floor Finish

The effects of humidity on the drying and performance of a floor finish is very important. High humidity retards the evaporation of water from the polish film, leaving the film soft, incompletely dry, and very Scuffable. Floor finish films, like latex paints, dry (harden) from the surface inward towards the flooring. Thus a floor finish which appears to be dry and feels dry to touch can in fact be wet and soft down close to the floor. Adequate ventilation during and after applying a floor finish is very important. If the air in the area being finished is high in humidity, close the windows and run the air conditioner to lower the humidity. In the winter, turn up the heat to dry the air and also warm-up the substrate (flooring).

Problems caused by high humidity are:

1. Excessive scuffing and black marking from traffic until finish dries hard. 
2. Poor detergent and water resistance due to the delay in finish cross-linking. 
3. The threat and reality of gluing furniture to the floor. 
4. Streaking and mop drag created by the coat being applied biting into preceding coats. (this phenomenon is caused by the applied coat re-emulsifying the previous coating that has not yet cure.) Another important aspect in the drying of floor finish is the correlation between drying time and solids of the finish. Higher solids results in a thicker film developing on the floor and thus, a greater period of dry time being required between coats (sometimes in excess of one hour).

The Correct Method to Damp Mop a Floor

Supplies & Equipment Dust Mop Outfit Double Bucket Mop system filled with COLD water. Medium industrial loop mop or similar size Wet floor signs Neutral cleaner; Blue Lightning /  Green Magic Putty knife or similar tool

Procedure	Prepare the area
Setup the Double Bucket by filling one bucket with COLD water and the appropriate amount of detergent.
Place the mop wringer on the empty bucket (this is where the soil is deposited) Place "Wet floor signs" at easy-to-see locations near the entrances into the area being cleaned Use a putty knife to remove gum and other foreign matter.
Use the dust mop outfit to remove dust and surface soil.
Set equipment in area where work will begin. When mopping a room, start at the farthest corner and work backward toward the door. Keep the double bucket outfit on the un-mopped portion of the floor where it cannot be tripped over.
Immerse mophead into detergent bucket and wring out lightly by placing the mop into the wringer and pressing down, removing excess water. After mopping a sufficient amount of floor space, place the soiled mop into the wringer and wring out the soiled mop. Then place the mop into the bucket containing the detergent solution and repeat the above steps.
When mopping a hallway, first mop the floor along the edge of the baseboard. The mophead should just touch the baseboard while mopping that portion of the floor. When mopping a room, place the mophead along the perimeter wall and proceed to mop the floor, dragging the mop in the direction of the baseboard. Mop the open floor area by moving the mop side to side in a figure eight motion. Overlap each stroke as you move back. Frequently flip the mophead as you work. This helps eliminate the re-depositing of soil from the mop.
Clean your equipment. Store equipment and supplies
Key Points When damp mopping, remember; Always use COLD water, never HOT. Keep your back straight. Do not twist your spine. Bend at the knees, not your back. Use your arm muscles to move the mop in a figure eight pattern.

Cleaning Hard Floors with MicroFiber

Use as a dust mop on any hard surface The microfiber mop is excellent for dust mopping floors. The microfibers are statically charged so that the static electricity attracts dirt, pet hairs, dust bails, and micro particles like a magnet. You do not throw away any dust cloths or mop pads, simply clean and re-use several hundred times. May be laundered over 100 times. To dust, use the “Microfiber head” dry to sweep and dust any type of hard surface floors. Place the mop under the mop frame and the swivel head allows you to reach in most hard to reach places like under furniture, between tight spaces. Once completed, simply pull off the dust mop from the mop frame and shake off loose dirt and particles or vacuum it.

Use the microfiber mop dry to pickup Dirt Pet hairs Dust balls Small crumbs Micro particles Remember, always dust mop the floor before you attempt to damp or wet clean to remove spills and stains.

Use as a wet mop on any hard surface floor Gather the Tools: 1 MicroPower flat mop and handle 1 + microfiber mop heads (number of heads is depending on total cleanable area) Small bucket 1-2 gallon is sufficient Appropriate cleaner To use the microfiber flat mop for damp mopping: Mix a solution of the appropriate cleaner and cold water in small bucket (approximately 1-2 gallon capacity is sufficient). Remove the microfiber pad from the MicroPower frame. Immerse the entire microfiber head in the solution and wring out the excess water. Re-attach the Microfiber mop head to the swivel head. When mopping a room, place the mophead along the perimeter wall and proceed to mop the floor, dragging the mop in the direction of the baseboard. Mop the remainder of your floor a conventional “Figure Eight” motion.

Use the microfiber mop wet to remove: Scuff marks Ground-in dirt Spills  Stains Use the microfiber mop on: Hardwood floors  Wood laminate  Tile  Linoleum  Marble  Granite

Spray Buffing Procedures

• Wet Floor Signs
  
• Floor Machine 175 - 400 RPM
  
• Red or Natural Fiber Floor Pad
  
• Spray Buff w/ trigger sprayer
  
• Double Bucket Mop Bucket with Wringer
  
• Neutral Cleaner- Blue Lightning or Green Magic
  
• Dust Mop Outfit
  

Place "Wet Floor" signs at easy-to-see locations near the entrances into the area being spray buffed. Dust mop the entire floor (start by dust mopping the perimeter of the area first). Wet mop (double bucket system or Auto Scrubber, corners and edges by hand).
Spray Buff Procedure
Spray Buffing is a two-step process: Step One:  Apply a light mist of Spray Buff in front of the floor machine of approximately 2-4 feet forward and 6-8" wide. The first step in the spray buffing operation will evenly apply and spread the material to the floor and the second pass will produce the high gloss. Spray buff is to be applied in a fine mist, not directly on the floor, but a mist over the area. Avoid applying spray in a solid stream (this leads to build-up). Step Two: Once you have applied/buffed the area of approximately 4' x 6' now begin to dry buff the same area again with no spray buff being applied. Dry buff the floor until the floor surface is glossy and not tacky.
Always spray buff from right to left / left to right (in a pendulum motion). Dwell on scuff marks - some to be done by hand with small red pad. Use as little spray buff as possible. If product starts to build up on pads, too much spray buff is being used.
Dust mop the entire floor after you have spray buffed.  Be sure to hit edges and corners (very important).
Things To Remember
Proper mopping procedures should be followed as per double bucket mop procedure. Apply only enough spray buff to fog a small area should be used. Be sure to not let material build up on pad. Pad must be clean and free from debris. Do not move machine too fast. Allow adequate time for pad to clean floor. After procedure is complete, equipment - including machine, mops, pads, buckets, wringer and spray buff bottles, must be cleaned thoroughly.
TIP
Did you ever wonder what that small circular cut-out in the center of the floor pad is?... This little circular disk is used for CLEANING the floor pad. Simply remove it and brush the entire surface of the floor pad (both sides) and re-insert it back in the center hole and re-use in the future.
High Speed Floor Care Points
Your cleaning procedure becomes a critically important step in a high speed maintenance program. Soil must be picked up and removed from the floor finish surface prior to high speed buffing. Any soil left on the floor will be ground into the finish by the burnisher. In a short period of time, the floor will develop a grayish-yellow appearance, which is difficult to correct without stripping. Therefore, in high speed programs, remember that damp mopping is not good enough. Use of an automatic scrubber and a good quality cleaner is essential.
Safety
Maintaining a sufficient base of floor finish is necessary to the success of any maintenance program. It becomes especially important in high speed programs because of your requirements for safety. High speed buffing of surfaces with little or no finish on them will result in very glossy, slippery floors. Check to see that adequate finish is present in all areas. Also, be sure your floor finish does not loose its slip resistant properties after high speed buffing.
Floor Maintenance Pads
Pads must be carefully chosen to match the high speed machine you are using. Consider the aggressiveness, fiber type and structure when evaluating pads. We have found that no one type will perform on all machines. The wrong pad can result in excessive finish removal (powdering), productivity loss due to clogging and glazing of the pad, and high material costs due to premature pad wear-out. Unsatisfactory appearance levels are the highest cost, as they lead to customer dissatisfaction.
Spray Buff
Conventional spray buffing relies on the chemical cleaning and polishing action of the liquid spray buff, along with the mechanical action of the pad, to repair scuffs in the floor finish and to achieve high gloss levels. This technique is useful up to 1,000 RPM or so, depending on the machine weight and pad choice. High speed machines above 1100 RPM no longer require the use of such a liquid. The machine provides sufficient mechanical action to smooth the finish, permitting repair of the film, removal of black marks and achievement of very high gloss levels.

Procedures for Stripping Vinyl Composition, VAT and Terrazzo

Prior to stripping any floor, you need the proper tools

Two mop buckets w/ wringers

Two mop handles w/ 20 oz wet mop heads (rayon mops are preferred, avoid cotton fibers)

Utility pad holder w/ black pad

Long handle scraper w/ blade

Putty knife

Wet floor signs

Cleaning cloths

Personal protective equipment (rubber gloves, eye protection)

Floor machine w/ pad driver (175 - 300 RPM)

Black stripping pads PT-2000 (Heavy Duty)

Green scrubbing pads

Scrubber splash guard

Wet vacuum w/ hose, wand and squeegee tool

Wax stripper Pour N Peel (rinse free) or Big Red Stripper

Floor finishes Ultimate II / Mirage / Defiant

Small utility pail (applying finish)

Floor finish mop w/ Mop handle

Floor Finish Applicator

An Overview of procedures used in stripping operations

Dust mop or sweep floor area and remove any foreign debris, i.e. gum, tar etc.

Mix proper solution of stripper with the correct amount of water in your mop bucket with *COLD water.

Post wet floor signs. The signs must indicate which areas are being stripped.

Mop the diluted stripper over the area to be cleaned (approximately 12' X 12') and allow adequate time for penetration of the stripper. Under normal conditions the diluted stripper should remain on the floor surface for 7 - 10 minutes. Do not allow stripper solution to dry on the floor surface!.

After a period of proper chemical reaction has passed (approximately 7  - 10 minutes), agitate the floor surface with a floor machine equipped with a PT-2000 stripping pad. Work with a small circular motion moving about the area you are stripping.

Use a utility pad holder with handle, equipped with a black pad and agitate the perimeter of the room i.e. baseboards.

Recover all stripper solution with a wet vacuum equipped with the proper floor squeegee tool.

If heavy build-up is present, reapply diluted stripper and allow 7 - 10 minutes dwell time and re-agitate with floor machine and stripping pad.

Recover all stripper solution with a wet vacuum equipped with the proper floor squeegee tool.

Alternate Rinse Process. After floor has been completely stripped of all old finish, change floor pad to a clean green or black floor pad (color of floor pad is not nearly as important as is the condition of the floor pad). Flood floor surface with clean water (approximately 12’ x 12’) and agitate with floor machine and appropriate floor pad. Recover water with wet vacuum and floor squeegee tool.

After floor has dried, check to insure that ALL the stripper residue has been removed by running your hand across the floor surface. If there is residue present on your hand repeat step #8.

Damp mop floor with a CLEAN mop and CLEAN rinse water.

Clean your equipment and return to its appropriate area.

Do not remove the wet floor signs until floor is completely dry.

* Why do we recommend COLD water you ask?. Simple. Much of the active ingredients in floor strippers will become very active (create a vapor) if mixed with HOT water and you therefore begin to weaken the strength of the stripper.

How to Apply Floor Finish with a Mop

How to apply floor finish using a looped floor finish mop

Products: Mirage Ultimate II Defiant

Equipment:

Wet Floor Signs Mop Bucket and Wringer Clean Floor Finish Mop with Mop Handle Plastic Trash Liner Small utility pail (applying finish) *optional method

Procedures:

Prior to finishing or re-finishing all dust and debris must be removed either through a scrubbing orstripping procedure. Assemble your equipment. Place wet floor signs. The signs must indicate which areas are being finished. Place a new trash liner in your mop bucket and allow excess to drape over the side of the bucket. Pour appropriate floor finish into lined mop bucket. Place your finish mop into bucket and GENTLY wring out excess material. The most effective way to remove excess material is place the mop into the wringer and push the mop down into the wringer. This will remove all excess finish while eliminating any foam build-up in the bucket. DO NOT PLACE MOP IN WRINGER AND WRING OUT, This causes a great deal of foam in the bucket which leads to bubbles in the floor finish. Outline the perimeter of the area to be finished. It is not necessary to go to the baseboard. We recommend no more than two (2) coats of finish around the perimeter. It is a rare occasion when people walk around the perimeter and scuff the floor. Begin applying the finish in a "figure eight motion". The figure eight motion allows for a 20 - 25 percent overlap; therefore leaving no missed spots. Allow floor finish to dry; approximate dry times vary between 15 - 25 minutes. Reapply finish until desired results are achieved. How many coats do I need? A general rule of thumb is, apply enough even coats so the floor "Looks Wet When It’s Dry". This can usually be accomplished with 3 - 5 coats of finish.

Optional Procedure

Fill the appropriate pail with floor finish. Dip the head (where the mop handle attaches) of the finish mop into the pail containing the finish (this will allow the finish to flow through the fibers at a constant rate). Begin applying a thin even coat of finish around the perimeter of the room. Turn the mophead often and re-dip into the pail before the mop becomes dried out. Using a side to side (figure eight) movement, apply the finish to the floor area and overlap the strokes of the mop. Allow floor to dry 15 - 25 minutes and reapply additional coats. *Alternate direction. How many coats do I need? A general rule of thumb is to apply enough even coats so the floor "Looks Wet When It’s Dry". This can usually be accomplished with 3 - 5 coats of finish.